Wednesday, July 18, 2012

Toul feu; tout flamme - fireworks in Toul

In keeping with tradition, almost every city, town and village in France has a fireworks display to celebrate Bastille Day. Toul is no exception, although this year they held their display on the Sunday night – the 15th. For us, it was a case of “will we? won't we?” go right up until 9.30pm. There had been heavy showers every two hours throughout the day and we weren't keen on getting drenched. (We have quite a history of getting drenched at fireworks and sound and light shows.) We had even once definitely decided NOT to go. Miraculously, though, the sky cleared enough for us to think it was worth the risk and if it rained we would just leave early.

Walking any distance is a bit of a mission for J with her wonky hip so we checked our bikes out and discovered they had headlights and tail lights and that the dynamos (once correctly positioned) did a great illuminating job! We'd never wanted to go cycling at night time before and so even though we've had these lovely bikes for more than four years, we had no idea they came with these pieces of equipment. Hard to believe but true!

Frank, our new British friend (since Pargny sur Saulx a couple of weeks ago), decided he would come with us. What a hoot it was tearing along the road, or cyclepath where possible, passing hundreds and hundreds of people on foot! We arrived at the designated spot, locked up the bikes and wandered amongst the thousands of people. We ate the fried, sweet confection called churros (they taste rather like doughnuts), which Frank bought because he thought we should try them – and because he likes them – and then found a beaut spot opposite the cathedral to watch the display. We arrived a little earlier than the 10.45pm start but clearly people had been there for some hours listening to a band and spending money on food, drink and gadgets like flashing toys designed to appeal to children, and some adults.

The cathedral had laser lights playing over it and looked more like a medieval or fairy tale castle. It proved to be a wonderful backdrop for the most amazing fireworks display we have ever seen - and we have seen a few! It was based around a theme: The History of Fireworks with a particular focus on France (of course). There was a commentary, and music that was synchronised with the fireworks. The balance between, commentary, music and fireworks was just right – and the fireworks were varied and spectacular. We should have taken a camera but that was one thing we forgot – so sorry, no photos in this post!

A feature of the large public gatherings we've experienced in France is the lovely family atmosphere and absence of any unpleasantness. Everyone is patient and happy to take part in events – and to leave in an orderly fashion. What a joy it was for us at the conclusion of events and on a high from watching the display, to hop on our bikes, tear along the road/cycle path, overtake the pedestrians and be back at the boat in no time. Once at the port, we crept along the pontoon and quietly lifted the bikes onto the side of our boat so as not to wake our neighbours (it was nearly midnight), only to find them just arriving back at their boat behind us! We all had a bit of a laugh at that. The man next door even shone his torch to make it easier for Catherine to lock the bikes onto the boat. That was thoughtful of him. At that point, it started to spit with rain. Our timing was impeccable – for once!

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