Tuesday, September 18, 2012

A Concentration of Kiwis

We didn't come across many other Kiwi boaters during our navigation this season – and when we did, it was quite memorable. Our first encounter was on the Meuse river after a fairly long day of boating with M+M. We were approaching Bogny-sur-Meuse (in the middle of the great Dutch and German migration in early June) hoping to find room on what we knew would be a fairly small pontoon. As we came closer, it became obvious that there wasn't any space and we'd have to raft up to another boat. We were just discussing which boat to choose, when C suggested we try the one at the back of the pontoon with a kiwi flag flying off its stern. Steve and Sonia on Zwerver made us feel most welcome and we enjoying conversations with them there and at Charleville-Mezieres, a little further up the Meuse, a few days later.
Our next encounter was at Chalons-en-Champagne. When we arrived there to drop off Graeme, we found two Australian boats already moored there. Before we left, Kiwi boats would outnumber the Australians 3-2. We'd met Phil and Cathy (Bayleaf) and Glynnis and Bruce (Gray Kiwi) in previous seasons and it was good to have a catch up with them again.

And that was it, until we arrived back in St Jean de Losne and parked right next to one called Contessa. She was empty at the time. On the second day here, C noticed a boat called La Marie-Josephe in port. We knew that this boat had been kiwi-owned (maybe still was) but that it had been up for sale during the season. It was also of particular interest to us because it is the same make, model and year as ours... It was only flying a French flag when C went to say “Hello” (or “Bonjour” or whatever was appropriate). It turns out that it had been sold during the season and the new owners are also Kiwis. Robyn and Michael own a vineyard in Marlborough and are thoroughly enjoying their introduction to French waterways and getting to know their new boat. Before they left a few days later, we'd had them around for dinner along with Mike and June from Contessa, who had arrived back on their boat after a holiday in the south of France. Mike and June also left soon after and for a while we were the only Kiwis in port...

...but only for a short time. Then, quite suddenly, Kiwi boats started appearing everywhere: in Blanquart's marina, in H20 and down on the town quay. It turns out that a Wellington couple, Grant and Vicky, had sold their boat and a farewell party had (sort of) been arranged for them. Some people arrived especially with the event in mind; others, like us, happened to be around at the time and heard about it on the grapevine. In the end, there were 20 Kiwis from 10 boats at the Cafe National for dinner that night.
 


For us, it was a lovely opportunity to catch up again with people that we've met on the canals – and in NZ - over the past 5 years, and to meet some new boaties as well. It was a most enjoyable evening of food, wine and lively conversation against a backdrop of the Saone and a glorious sunset. Yet another moment for us to savour – and store away in our bank of happy memories.
 


It was also brilliant for us in terms of advertising our boat for sale. People looking for canal boats often talk to those who already have them, so we were delighted at the interest these boaters took in Erewhon. Several came to visit to look her over so they could talk with some authority to anyone looking to buy a boat; we were delighted to welcome them aboard. One couple was convinced it was the right boat for friends of theirs, who were looking – and didn't hesitate to tell them so. Unfortunately for us, those friends absolutely want an outside steering position, which Erewhon doesn't have. Never mind, we believe that there is someone out there, probably from NZ, Australia or France, who will love our boat as much as we have... We just need to find a way to make sure they find each other.

Tuesday, September 11, 2012

Commémoration de la Libération de Saint-Jean-de-Losne

 
 
 
On Sunday 9 September we went into St Jean de Losne to watch the parade celebrating the 68th anniversary of the liberation of St Jean de Losne by American forces at the end of World War 2. This was a well-supported event involving a mixture of pride, celebration and a lot of laughs ... almost a repetition of a feeling of relief that the locals must have experienced all those years ago. Those participating in the parade gathered on the Losne side of the bridge that spans the Saone River and, in a well organised manner and with a lot of fanfare, crossed into St Jean de Losne. Participants in the parade included former members of the local regiment and of the Groupe Dubois – the local resistance group; local dignataries; flag-bearers; locals dressed up in the costume of the day and quite a lot of WW2 military vehicles. 

 
 
We were a little alarmed to see a few children in war vehicles sporting imitation weaponry; we suppose it was all meant in a spirit of celebration and fun but we found it rather disturbing. Maybe we have read too many books about wars and their effects this summer. 
 

The parade wound through a few streets, stopping at spots where particular events took place, and finished with laying of wreathes at the war memorial. This was all followed by lunch at the civic centre but we decided to give that a miss.
 


Many businesses and people had gone to a lot of effort to decorate the streets which added to the gaity of the occasion. It was not easy to get really good photos in the good natured melée but we hope the ones we have included will give you a bit of an idea of the ebullient atmosphere!

 

Friday, September 7, 2012

7 September, St Jean de Losne

Today has been a chaotic day. We thought for once you could cope with a chaotic account!!!

Yesterday C had harvested sloes (prunelles in local lingo) to set up Christian with the novel (for him) Sloe gin for the coming European winter. (Absolutely yummy stuff, we relished the brew we made last year in St Valery ready for this season)

Straight after breakfast we went to Lidls to buy the gin and one or two other things we needed.

Back to the boat to get the washing under way, clean toilets and handbasins and prepare sloes for 'winter stewing' when the lovely Georges pops in to see us. To be fair, this was expected, he was coming to collect his valuable guide books, which he lent to us two years ago to help with our navigation into Belgium. ( 4 books worth 130 euro - about $200) Of course, we had a chat about what we had both been doing since last we met; they will winter over in the Arsenal in Paris. He also offered us the use of his campervan next spring if we want to come back but navigating is difficult for J with her wonky hip! How lucky can you get?!!

12.20pm: washing sorted, and off to visit John and Anne on Petite Princesse  for lunch. (We first met them three years ago on the Doubs.) That's when things started to get slightly wobbly and out of focus! Champagne for starters, what else?! Barbequed stuffed capsicums (with a different wine); barbequed lamb, roast veges and salad (another different wine); fruit salad (more wine); coffee and Calvados (but none of us bothered with the coffee). Then to finish off, we enjoyed a few glasses of some obscure but delicious, garlic-flavoured liqueur. We floated home at 8pm and didn't mind that we missed dinner!!

C hadn't had a chance to prick each sloe 10 times as part of the sloe gin-making process before we went out for lunch so she started when we got back to the boat. She was less than impressed when she discovered the J had tipped 2 cups of gin down the sink! J thought they were coffee cups being soaked but in fact newly-bought gin had to be 'stored' somewhere to make room for the sloes and sugar in the sloe gin processing. Oh dear! How sad! Never mind! We'll have to buy some more tomorrow!!!

Sorry no photos! If this makes sense it is because C has done a jolly good job of editing this rambling account!